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Pictures
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Instructions |
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BMW Synthetic Oil can be either 5w-30
or 5w-40. I have recently converted to Mobile 1 Synthetic
Oil 10w-30 purchased at Costco. (8 quarts are required for
V-8's and 6 quarts for I-6's)
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Oil Collecting Container (buy at Kragen
or an autoparts store)
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Large Socket Wrench with a 17mm bit
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OEM Filter Part# 11-42-7-510-716
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Craftsman Strap Wrench for the Oil Filter
Canister Cap instead of using a huge socket wrench bit. ($20
at Sears)
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Floor Jack
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Flat and Philips Headed Screw Drivers
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Hammer
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Funnel
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2 one gallon sized juice jugs (preferably
with a screw on cap)
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Plastic bags (like from the supermarket)
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Paper Towels
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Gloves
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Jack up the car using the Floor Jack
on the driver's side. You will see this rectangular area under
the side skirt. Jack up the car as much as needed.
Warning!!! Make
sure the emergency brake is secure, and put the car into 1st gear
or into park to prevent roll back!!! In addition, place stopping
blocks behind the rear wheels as well. You can DIE if the car rolls
off the jack!!!
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Put on some Gloves.
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Use the Philips Screw Driver to unscrew
the Cover Plate.
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Remove this plate to see the Oil Pan Drain Screw.
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Use the Socket Wrench with the 17mm
bit to loosen the Oil Pan Drain Plug. You may need the Hammer
to help you loosen the plug.
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Make sure you open the air releasing valve and
the collecting hole of the Oil Collecting Container.
Make sure it is near by before unscrewing the Drain Plug all
the way.
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Place the Collecting Container under
the Drain Plug and unscrew the Drain Plug completely.
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Let the system drain for about 45 minutes to
ensure as much as possible drainage to occur.
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Locate the Oil Filter Canister in the engine
compartment. For the V-8's the canister is located on the driver's
side of the engine compartment.
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Use the Craftsman Strap Wrench to loosen
the cap.
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Be careful. There is about 1 quart of oil in
there.
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Put some newspaper and a plastic bag
nearby to catch and drips as you transfer the whole filter and
cap to the plastic bag.
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Place the attached filter and cap into the plastic
bag.
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Now away from the engine, using a Flat Head
Screw Driver, remove the old rubber O-Ring from the Canister
top.
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Separate the Canister top from the old oil filter
by simply pulling the two apart.
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Do everything in the plastic bag.
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Take the New Rubber O-Ring and coat it
with the used oil in the plastic bag.
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Slip the New Rubber O-Ring onto the Canister
Top.
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Take the New Oil Filter and snap it into
to the Canister Top.
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Go back to the Oil Filter Canister in the engine
compartment.
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Simply place the connected Canister Top and
New Oil Filter into the Oil Filter Canister.
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Screw down the Canister Top to hand tightness.
Verify that the New Rubber O-Ring seal is no longer exposed.
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Take the Oil Pan Screw and remove the Old Metal
Ring.
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Take the New Metal Ring from the New
Filter's Bag and place it onto the Oil Pan Screw.
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Once the oil has had sufficient drainage, screw
the Oil Pan Screw back into its receiving end.
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Tighten the screw enough to ensure no leakage.
Hand tightness should be sufficient with the Socket Wrench.
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Replace the Cover Plate back and screw close.
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Now in the engine compartment, unscrew the square
Oil Cap.
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Use the Funnel to begin pouring the Synthetic
Oil.
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After pouring in the fresh oil, it's time for
clean-up.
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Take the Oil Collecting Container, full
of used oil, and begin to pour the contents into a gallon container
using the same Funnel.
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I like to use the Minute Maid gallon containers
because they have a screw on top to prevent spills. Some milk
containers have pop on tops and could easily pop off if dropped.
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Please be environmentally friendly. Recycle
the oil through your neighborhood waste management service or
take it to a local auto shop.
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Do not worry about mixing used synthetic oils
with conventional oils. They all get recycled.
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Questions or comments? Email me at:
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Copyright© 2002 540i Sport.com
Last Modified on
February 11, 2002
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